Thar - spectacular desert vistas

Posted by Arun on 5:15 AM
Some come for the spectacular desert vistas, others for the unique cuisine, still others for a wealth of textiles and artefacts. It’s a (rare) connoisseur who comes just to appreciate the splendidly individual architecture of the region — Jaipur with its pink glaze, Jaisalmer with its golden stone and Jodhpur with its blue-washed homes. The desertscape, with its gateway at Jodhpur, is a blend of browns, creams and reds; sand and sandstone.
The small towns of Osiyan, Phalodi and Khichan are about 135 km from Jodhpur. Osiyan comes first at 65 km, literally in the middle of nowhere, at the edge of the Thar. It is said that 2,500 years ago, Osiyan had a population in lakhs. The town was called Upkeshpur then and had four lakh Rajputs, who became Jains. It was later called Osiyan. Both Hindu and Jain temples, of red and cream sandstone, reputed to be around 2,500 years old, are superb works of art, easily rivalling those of Orissa and Karnataka. The Jain temple, 2,500 years old, is a masterpiece in creamy sandstone, very well maintained. Graceful thorans (arches), freestanding pillars and fantastic sculptures make this unique temple something of a fantasy. The dome temple has exquisite figures of apsaras in cream and pink stone, quarried locally long, long ago. This temple has been restored with care, using no cement or iron, but the materials used originally.


But it is Phalodi and Khichan that remain in the mind. In typical regional style, the havelis loom up from the road, secluded by jharokhas and jaalis, and thick wooden doors frequently embellished with ivory and brass.

Many of the havelis paint their grand front doors a fantastic shade — so vibrant in the desert scene. Temples prefer bright yellow for the doors, a fabulous combination against pristine whitewashed walls, the sand and the colourful attire of the womenfolk. The wooden doors, small windows (khidkis) and ceilings are usually made of the hardy local Rohida wood, mellowed over the years. The wooden pieces have become collector’s items today.


Many of the large havelis have a basement, as is evident from the raised front. This serves as a cool area in the summer heat, as also suitable for the storage of perishables. Large chutes from the raised frontage send out the rain water into the streets.

A heightened sense of beauty somehow seems to have pervaded the desert region, perhaps to balance or counter the extreme aridity. Correspondingly, workmanship and artistry of a high order also appears to be an inborn gift of the people here. Given the popular hyped attractions of the bigger cities in the State, it is no surprise that this area is not so well known. However, the richness of its architectural heritage brooks no denial, especially as a visit here can be combined with trips to nearby Bikaner and Jaisalmer.

A Trip to Ladakh Village

Posted by Arun on 4:52 AM
When we were planning our trip to Ladakh, what drew us to the idea of doing a homestay was the simple yet powerful concept behind it. The Snow Leopard Conservancy encourages and trains local families to welcome tourists into their houses for a very nominal fee. The money thus collected serves as an additional income for the local people. This additional income not only increases the communities’ stake in protecting wildlife, but also offsets the losses that these villagers incur due to livestock depredation by snow leopards.
Completely sold on a homestay, we managed to combine it with our two-day trek in the Rumbak Valley. Although a relatively easy trek, the altitude and the intense heat made it an arduous task. One normally does not associate heat with the mountains, but Ladakh being a cold desert, experiences extreme weather conditions.


The trek itself was a gradual climb and our path was along a river, which apart from providing a picturesque backdrop was a welcome relief from the heat. The first signs of the village were fields that gradually grew in size as we climbed further up. Our first and much needed pit stop was at this little shop that had a white canvas stretched across a pole to cover a small wall that was the enclosure. It was a struggle to get ourselves up as we did have to walk a little more to reach the village we were staying in.

The village was nothing but a collection of a few brick houses, spread out, overlooking the fields. It had a deserted look, as most people were out in the fields. Once inside a narrow corridor opens into a big room that housed the kitchen and the common area where the family have their meals and watch TV. Ladakhi kitchens are very interesting and maybe the one distinct characteristic that distinguishes their homes from any other. They have a variety of brass and steel vessels that are all displayed. The prosperity of the family is judged by their kitchen and the number of vessels on display. The lady of the house made us some gur chai or the traditional Ladakhi butter tea. It’s made of butter and is salty, almost like a soup, but it keeps the body warm and is a great source of energy.



Completely sold on a homestay, we managed to combine it with our two-day trek in the Rumbak Valley. Although a relatively easy trek, the altitude and the intense heat made it an arduous task. One normally does not associate heat with the mountains, but Ladakh being a cold desert, experiences extreme weather conditions.

The trek itself was a gradual climb and our path was along a river, which apart from providing a picturesque backdrop was a welcome relief from the heat. The first signs of the village were fields that gradually grew in size as we climbed further up. Our first and much needed pit stop was at this little shop that had a white canvas stretched across a pole to cover a small wall that was the enclosure. It was a struggle to get ourselves up as we did have to walk a little more to reach the village we were staying in.

The village was nothing but a collection of a few brick houses, spread out, overlooking the fields. It had a deserted look, as most people were out in the fields. Once inside a narrow corridor opens into a big room that housed the kitchen and the common area where the family have their meals and watch TV. Ladakhi kitchens are very interesting and maybe the one distinct characteristic that distinguishes their homes from any other. They have a variety of brass and steel vessels that are all displayed. The prosperity of the family is judged by their kitchen and the number of vessels on display. The lady of the house made us some gur chai or the traditional Ladakhi butter tea. It’s made of butter and is salty, almost like a soup, but it keeps the body warm and is a great source of energy.

Kashmir Beauty, Srinagar travel

Posted by Arun on 12:08 PM

When I landed at Srinagar airport, I expected to find the place crawling with security personnel considering it is known to be a sensitive zone and have a tense environment. But much to my delight I was totally wrong. It was bustling with tourists and extremely helpful ground staff. The crisp air and golden sunshine outside was exhilarating. Wide roads, open grounds with towering trees meet my eye as I drive along the Dal Lake en route to the hotel. Rows of houseboats anchored on the lake beckon visitors as also the beautifully decorated shikaras (boats) with their brilliant coloured seats. The distant mountains surrounding the valley are perfectly mirrored in the ever so still waters of the lake. Now I see the huge fort which is said to have been built by Mughal emperor Akbar atop the hill, Hari Parbat. I detour onto the winding driveway of the only heritage hotel in the city, the Lalit Grand Palace. This was earlier the palace of the Kashmir Maharaja Hari Singh and called Gulab Bhawan. However, the palace, sprawling across nearly 50 acres strategically placed in one of the city’s best sites on the slope of a hill, was turned into a hotel with its 112 rooms and 59 luxurious palace suites. Leaving my bags in one of its spacious heritage rooms, I step out into the front garden overlooking the lake. The view is spectacular. The lush green lawn hemmed in by rows of red dahlias bobbing their heads in the breeze, the magnificent chinar trees with the hills partly covered in green deodars and chinars.

Autumn leaves drift by my window, the autumn leaves of red and gold… The lines of the once popular Nat King Cole number come to my mind as I eat the delicious Kashmiri dishes like dum aloo, hacque saag, raajma and saffron-flavoured rice followed by almond saffron phirni and finally the aromatic steaming kahwa. Srinagar is a very large city I discovered. I am lucky to have a Kashmiri friend Hashmat Ullah Khan to drive me to the famous Mughal Gardens, the Nishat Bagh with its terraced lawns and fountains and the Shalimar Bagh that was built by Mughal emperor Jehangir for his wife Noor Jehan, also set in sprawling grounds with terraced lawns and a central water channel. Hashmat takes me through the meandering lanes of the old city to a shawl weaver’s house near Safa Kadal. Inside, the weaving loom is set up in an immaculately clean room, where the weavers are busy with their wooden spindles called kani briskly making a kani shawl. I look down at an exquisite, colourfully designed part of the shawl that has been completed. It can take a year or more to make one of the famous kani shawls, Hashmat says. The next day I drive up the hill skirting the botanical gardens to the Chasme Shahi, a natural water spring set amidst a terraced garden. I scoop up the water in my palms and drink. The crystal clear water tastes divine, especially after the hot climb. A side road from here and a drive higher up the hill takes one to Pari Mahal built by Shah Jahan’s son in the 17th century. The place that once housed a library has a fabulous view of the Dal Lake and the city below. After a day long outing it’s great to be back in the Lalit Grand Palace. The Darbar Hall, used as a dining area, is part of the old palace complex that is built on springs and is therefore earthquake proof. The palace has its old secrets and is said to have secret tunnels to the grounds outside. They have neither been explored and no one knows the exact route… As I leave the place, I promise myself that I will return soon.

Charm of Agra

Posted by Arun on 12:05 PM
Just when the sun god decided to give north India some respite from his onslaught, I decided to visit the mecca of romance and see the Taj for myself. I guess somewhere I was hoping that maybe the late Shah Jahan’s romantic act would inspire my husband into building a small home for me but alas! Agra, located in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh, is about 200 km from Delhi and offers a plethora of travel options. While it takes less than an hour to reach Agra by air (from Delhi), travelling on the popular Shatabdi train is perhaps the most convenient, inexpensive and fascinating way to reach the destination. And thus my journey aboard the comfy Shatabdi, with hot tea and a sumptuous breakfast kickstarted my sojourn. As we reached Agra, we proceeded to see the marvel of love and the epitome of beauty. And as the Taj unfolded in front of our eyes, its sheer beauty and grandeur took our breath away. Let’s just say, the feeling cannot be truly described and is best left for you to experience. All I can say is that the Taj Mahal, the 17th century mausoleum, resting on the banks of the river Yamuna, which stands as a reminder of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s intense love for his beauteous wife Mumtaz Mahal, is a must see. Having feasted our eyes on the Taj, we headed to our next destination — the Agra Fort. Built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1565 A.D., this huge fort narrates tales of bravery, of its triumphs and victories over its rivals and its reigning years during the Mughal era. Having visited history, it was now time to satiate the hunger pangs growling in our stomachs. Since Agra plays host to a large number of foreign tourists, the destination has a horde of eating options ranging from plush five-star joints to ordinary dhabas. We ate our fill of traditional Mughlai gosht at a decent outlet and went on with our Agra tour. Since we had a return ticket that very evening, we could not go to see Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra or visit the city of victory Fatehpur Sikri, which is also a Unesco World Heritage Site. Nevertheless, we did have time to shop at the bazaar and pick the popular peetha to take with us back home. If your partner is indulgent, you can also try on the famous jutties (shoes), buy some bags, look at the bamboo saris and miniature marble Taj Mahals to carry back as souvenirs. On our way back to Delhi, the yearning for a longer visit to this marvellous city kept me occupied and I have to admit that another trip is on my agenda sometime soon.

Yercaud - An Unusual holiday

Posted by Arun on 12:00 PM

Most of the tourists is that they are always looking for something to do. A holiday, to them, is like an expedition. They arm themselves with maps and brochures, survey the geography, imbibe the history, and return with a suitcase full of souvenirs and undeveloped film rolls. There are the adventure tourists who’re always climbing rocks, rafting rivers, and trekking like there’s no tomorrow. Little wonder, then, that if you recommend Yercaud to a vacationer, he’ll reply: “Oh, but there’s nothing to do, there.”

Nothing to do. Isn’t that the point? If you’re looking for the biggest, the tallest, the greatest, the oldest, don’t go to Yercaud. If you’re looking for a tourist spot that’s hot and happening, if you’re seeking an unspoilt verdant paradise, if you want (oh, Heaven help us) an educational experience, stop reading. The holiday I’m about to describe should be taken annually, off-season, with large doses of sloth and solitude.

Yercaud is a hill station near Salem , Tamil Nadu, and India in the Servarayan range.Try going to Yercaud in winter. This recommendation would not go down well with most tourists who throng to the hills in summer and the plains in winter. They are the sort who will never eat ice-cream in cold weather. Who will never ever violate that cardinal sin in the holy book of tourism: travelling without “advance booking”. Reservations must be made for stay as well as for travel, up and down.

When we drove to Yercaud, therefore, last winter, without a road map, and without booking a thing, it was with a feeling that we had flouted many an unwritten regulation. When we hit Salem we asked sundry helpful citizens “Yercaud yengay?” and simply followed the hand signs till we reached the road that led up to the ghats. Making our way up the gently ascending road that cut its way through the forest, we saw hordes of greedy monkeys waiting for freebies. Around nearly every bend was a parked motorbike and a young couple seated on a ledge, lost to the world. With good omens such as these, what could go wrong? We entered Yercaud and stopped at the main junction, which was devoid of hustle and bustle. All pairs of eyes (about 28 of them) were on us as we bought glasses of milky, over-sweet tea from a vendor, and as the chill breeze crossed the lake to fan our faces, it dawned on us that we were probably the only strangers in town! Finding a hotel took roughly half an hour, since it involved knocking two out of three choices off the list. One hotel was under renovation, while another, overlooking a cliff, had prices that were equally steep. Both places appeared totally deserted.

Back to the lake we went, and into the government-owned Hotel Tamil Nadu. No cars were parked outside, and all was quiet within. Perfect. So was the off-season tariff: Rs. 300 for a double room and Rs. 500 for “deluxe, with TV”. The rooms were clean and basic. Those who expect room heating, plush carpets, bathtub, and a complimentary fruit basket have no business coming to this hotel. Here, you get open shelves instead of a wardrobe, white plastic chairs, and a bathroom with a tiny cake of medicinal soap besides a wash-basin the size of a large saucer. Our room had a balcony that gave us a tree-kissed view of the lake.

All this loose talk about lakes must have you wondering: Is it anything like Ooty Lake? Remember, Yercaud plays handmaiden to Queen Ooty, and its “Big Lake” is no match for its famous counterpart. There is a walled-off “Little Lake” as well, in the market, next to Montfort School (where Nagesh Kukunoor shot his film “Rockford” set in a boys’ boarding school). If Ooty has the Botanical Gardens, Yercaud has a humble Rose Garden. For a two-rupee fee, you can get a long-distance view of a fenced-in patch of rose shrubs, and then wander around the rose-less expanse of the garden. There is a modest grove of pine and citrus — but this is no time for a botany lesson. The botanically inclined could take a stiff walk up to the Horticultural Research Station. The man in charge took the entrance fee from us, waved a hand vaguely to his left and said in Tamil, “There are the fly-catching plants.” He waved to the right and said, “There are the plants for sale.” And then he left us strictly alone. Under “Endangered Species” was a Pitcher Plant that we managed to take pictures of through the iron bars of its cage. We wandered amid orchids, ferns, and succulents, crawled halfway into a small cave, and took in the view from atop large rocks. I idly wondered where the Kurinchi was: on the ghat road we had spotted a sign that announced: “Yercaud — land of the Kurinchi flower”. Since we didn’t get to see any, I hereby confer on Yercaud a new title: “land of the poinsettia”. So many of its small houses have gardens aflame with scarlet bracts.

This destination has little to offer the inveterate sightseer. There is a rough map on the wall of the hotel’s reception area that indicates Ladies Seat, Gents Seat, Kiliyur Waterfall, Cauvery Peak, and so on, and you could dutifully cover a certain number of spots per day. A more adventurous method would be to simply explore each road radiating from the main junction or branching off into narrow arteries, and you’ll be bound to hit the same spots, more or less.

We found that the Seats (both Ladies and Gents) were vantage points. Cauvery Peak sounded exciting. Was it a peak from where you could see the Cauvery river? With this in mind we negotiated the pothole-ridden Loop Road, driving past endless coffee plantations. A sudden shroud of mist slipped onto the hill slopes, and the landscape turned into a dream. So what if Cauvery Peak turned out to be just the name of a private plantation? Mist has this quality of turning the mundane into the magical. The waterfall proved elusive. The road stopped beside a well and a log blocked the way. On the wall of the well was a yellow arrow and “To Waterfall”. A sign also announced in stern block capitals: “No alo car & byk”, so we hoofed it. We took a narrow trail downhill, hoping to hear at least a faint murmur of water in the all-pervading stillness. No luck, but the trek through the secluded woods was worth it.

Along one of the public parks was a road we hadn’t taken. An arrow indicating Pagoda Point tempted us, and we followed directions until we ended up on a plateau of sorts strewn with dozens of Tamil Nadu Housing Board dwellings. Not a single house was occupied, and many of the glass panes were broken. The road led past this disastrous project to a dead end, where stood a small temple on a cliff. We bought corn-on-the-cob from a forlorn seller of “American popcorn” and settled down on one of the cement benches. The view was spectacular although a blue haze obscured the distant hills. On a clear day you can see Mettur dam, said a lone bystander. We didn’t bother to ask why Pagoda Point was so named; three stacks of stones piled in the rough shape of pagodas gave us an indication.

During our four-day stay the weather kept displaying slight nuances. The sun would take an ad hoc decision to work full time, or part time, or to take the day off entirely. But whether it was sunny, cloudy or misty, whether it was windy or still, it would be crisply chill during the day and so cold at night that we would have to worm our way under the blankets of the beds that were “made up” western-style. The warm water served in the hotel restaurant was a real comfort. We had all our meals there for lack of choice but we weren’t complaining. The food was basic but tasty, and the cold gave us enormous appetites.

Yercaud isn’t shopper’s heaven. If you wanted to encourage the local economy, you could buy coffee, pepper, honey or cinnamon. Or else you could visit the family-run perfumeries for a range of not just perfumes but health and beauty-care products made with natural ingredients. Do not be alarmed by bottles named “Black Panther Oil” and “White Panther Oil”: no animals were shot in the making of these medicinal balms.

Yercaud doesn’t exactly have a swinging nightlife; public parks close at 5 p.m. and boating on the lake by 6 p.m.

After our evening walk we would ensconce our well-wrapped bodies in chairs on the balcony and look out over the serene lake. After dinner, we’d be back to more of the same. The watchman of the boathouse would burn eucalyptus twigs to keep off the cold, and the mist would turn the streetlights into yellow fuzz. Only a dog’s faint bark or the occasional musical air-horn of a lorry at the junction would break the tranquillity.

Just ourselves, and the stars for company.

Royal tracks of India

Posted by Arun on 11:55 AM
They say they’re going to put us on a train. They’re going to give us wine glasses and panoramic windows to peer through together. And controls to fix our room temperature. And lush beds to go with lush countryside. And cushions of every variety so we can mix and match them for comfort, or toss them aside and admire the mosaic on their cover. We’d better. They’re going to charge us a bomb.

Today, the Orient Express, “the train against which all other luxury trains are measured” according to Vanity Fair, has reached its destinational metaphor. The Indian government’s permission to private companies to charter trains and organise extravagant tours has led to an explosion in the local luxury train market. “We were just waiting for the permission to enter the market”, say the representatives of international travel companies Cox & Kings, Thomas Cook and The Luxury Trains unanimously, all of whom are loath to disclose details of their projected profit margins and costs. “This sector was waiting to happen”. It was. And now that it has, many palaces are ready to roll on rail tracks.

The Deccan Odyssey, Royal Rajasthan on Wheels, The Golden Chariot and, of course, the Palace on Wheels (which probably has genuinely antique decor by now) are known names. Next on tracks will be The Indian Maharaja (November 18, 2009) and Maharaja Express (January 2010) launched by rival companies Thomas Cook and Cox & Kings respectively, with prices touching Rs 1,00,000 a night — and more.

While The Indian Maharaja is the Deccan Odyssey on a different route, Maharaja Express is a joint venture between Cox & Kings and the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Limited (a public sector concern). Later into 2010 will roll out Incredible India — Punjab Luxury Train and Splendour Of The South. For a nation whose father got thrown out of a first class train coach before he took up civil rights, we seem to have chugged on to a better station.

We’ll have a champagne lunch (Let there be Moet…) with the Taj Mahal as the backdrop. We’ll taste the finest cuisine of each state as we pass through it. Murg Jardaloo simmering in our mouths, penne with creamy saffron sauce melting our palate. The state-of-the-art “air cushion” technology (on the Maharaja Express) is much better than the earlier “spring” technology. We’ll hardly feel anything. Musicians, dancers and elephants will greet us at stations.

Ajay Trehan, CEO, The Luxury Trains, is called “Ajay Train” by his colleagues. “Road connectivity and safety in India can’t be relied upon,” he says. “Whereas, here you have a hotel that moves with you”. Arup Sen of Cox & Kings seconds this: “Our luxury train will cocoon the lack of infrastructure in the country. Also, if anyone was to cover the same destinations by plane, he’d go crazy trying to catch every flight on time. Here the itinerary works on its own”. Thomas Cook’s Sunil Suri adds that train journeys treat people to a countryside that road journeys seldom do.

Private railway cars and royal trains were once the status symbols of maharajas and maharajas only. The largest and most luxurious railway carriage ever built in Britain was for Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of Indore in 1936 — the art deco interior included sycamore wood, chrome, pink mirrors and an internal telephone system. Such satisfaction will now be available in abundance to those who want to bridge the gap between riches and royalty, at least when on vacation. Considering The Indian Maharaja is already 70 per cent booked, right into 2010, there are many royal seekers.

We might get the presidential carriage all to ourselves. A limo will take us to Mehrangarh Fort and to Jaipur shops. There’s going to be tiger spotting and an exhibition elephant polo match. We’re going to see the sun rise on the Ganges in Varanasi, the temples of Khajuraho, and the ruins of Champaner. Back on the train, there’ll be Mark Tully (on Maharaja Express) to talk to us about India. We’ll have numerologist Sanjay Jumaani too (on The Indian Maharaja)…

Historically, markets for these luxury products lie in the UK, US and most of western Europe. Domestic Indians form only about five per cent of The Indian Maharaja’s clients, not counting nostalgic NRIs.

“What recession?” laughs Trehan, when asked whether he’s felt the meltdown, and goes on to explain that their clientele is too high-end to cut holiday costs because of Wall Street. Suri and Sen claim the recession’s effects have been negligible and are fast disappearing. Sen talks about a German family that’s expressed interest — they are now earning Euros 670 million instead of Euros 700 million per annum. “Now how would that make a difference to their lifestyle?”

For an industry and its clientele far more horrified by 26/11 than by the economic downturn, security is a serious concern. Sen says the government is taking this concern very seriously and will provide the necessary support for their joint venture.

Mystic Mahabaleshwar

Posted by Arun on 11:51 AM
Mahabaleshwar is a beautiful hill station situated in the Western Ghats. It is at a altitude of 1353m above the sea level, so very cold during summer. This was the capital of Bombay Province during British rule. Mahabaleshwar is easily approachable from Mumbai, it is at a distance of 285 km from Mumbai.

Mahabaleshwar has many beautiful places. These are called points, one can hire private taxis to go there. These points can be covered in one day. Some of the popular points are Arthur’s Seat, Tiger’s Spring, Wilson point, Sunset point which is also popularly known as Bombay point.

Sunset point is very popular and there is lot of rush at this spot at sunset hour. One can see the beautiful valley with greenery from most of these points. Venna lake is another famous tourist spot, one must enjoy boating here. There are three waterfalls in this region, these are Chinaman’s waterfall, Lingmala and Dhobi waterfall. To see the real beauty of these waterfalls one must visit them after the rains.

Other famous points are Kate’s Point, Lodwick Point, Elphinstone Point, Helen’s Point, Falkland Point. Some of these are named after the viceroys of India.

Old Mahabaleshwar is called Kshetra Mahabaleshwar, there is an ancient Shiva temple, which has the swayambhu shiva lingam. There is another temple nearby called Panchganga temple which is said to be the sangam of five rivers — Koyna, Savitri, Gayatri, Venna and Krishna. Many people visit this place as a part of pilgrimage.

If time and money permit, one can go to the ayurvedic spa centres here which offer different massages and treatments for tension relief and many chronic diseases.

Another hill station which is very near Mahabaleshwar is Panchgani (18 km). This place derives its name from the five hills around it. This hill station also has some beautiful points to see, like Parsi point from where one can see the Krishna valley and waters of Dhom dam, Table Land which is the second highest plateau in Asia after the Tibetan plateau. Some spacious caves are here, it is said that some of the caves were built by Pandavas during Mahabharata period. One can see the beautiful locations here used in many Bollywood movies.

Those interested in history and forts can visit the Pratapgad Fort, which is 20 km from Mahabaleshwar. This was built under the command of Shivaji Maharaj by his prime minister. This fort has the famous Bhavani mata temple, which was built by Shivaji. Buses and taxis go up only to the base of the fort, the rest has to be covered on foot.

Spice of Goa

Posted by Arun on 11:44 AM
A HOLIDAY is often incomplete without the thrill of shopping, so why not shop in Goa even if it is touted as a prime HOLIDAY destination, vibrant with its selling schemes. Rather than being cocooned in five-star sterility, it’s fun and comfortable to stay at one of Goa’s innumerable small homely hotels. Here one gets to speak to friendly staff, and the owner, who are so enlightening on local things, and help in arranging for safe transport to hire to visit spots of interest. After all, life’s not just about Goa’s beaches or sunbathing. One wants to experience a slice of local life.

The best way to do this is visit the thronging Mapusa market (pronounced Maapsa, from the Konkani “Maap”, meaning volumes of measure and “Sa”, meaning “to fill”), about 12 kilometres away from Panaji. It is a short mini-bus ride away (Rs. 5 on a non-stop shuttle. The return trip is of course a little different, as shall be told shortly!) Mapusa bus stand is just a two-minute walk from the open grounds of the Friday market, from early morning till late evening. It is positively raucous, with Konkani, Marathi and Kannada echoing loudly, along with American accented English spoken by the uneducated women and children stall holders — they’ve smartly picked up the lingo from the teeming foreign tourists, in full strength here in the cooler months.

Each trader has a patch in front her where wares are laid out attractively — from antique thingummies, glass baubles, old medicine jars in ceramic and glass, bundles of beads, chains, bracelets, rings, shell belts, mirrored bags, plants, chillies — 12 locally grown varieties, kokum, tamarind balls, jaggery, fruit, bottles of kokum and mango syrups, sausages, a bounty of fish, uniquely tied brooms, terracotta ware, jewellery stores, local bakeries and flowers — mogra, crossandra and gomphrena — all beautifully tied into venis to long strings of marigolds. The sights, sounds and smells of Mapusa are a must in one’s lifetime.

Local Goan and Konkani women sell ready-to-eat local fish pickles, mango pickles and Goan masala powders for their unique cuisine. One almost wishes one ate fish, for the women generously offer a taste of their mouthwatering wares.

The pungent aroma of chillies sets everybody sneezing in its particular corner.

Lambadi women from Karnataka are all smiles on hearing their tongue, and most willing to bargain for their exquisite embroidered bags, purses and dress material. St. Francis bakers is a huge presence here, with the most delicious plumcake possible. Goan bebinca too is available here.

The Mapusa market has been going on for a very long time. As the lady who was selling flower seed packets at a small table set up under an umbrella said, “These seed packets used to cost Re. One. When I was a child, I used to come here with my mother to sell them. Today they cost Rs. 5 each, 35 years later.”

A happy tired morning or whole afternoon later, laden with one’s bargains, it’s back to the shuttle bus for the ride back to Panaji. It’s still fast, safe and comfortable, but now the driver and conductor allow people to bring on their purchases. A big woman lays her big bag of dried fish at my feet, and proceeds to drape her ample body over my back, thus supporting herself while standing!

Her friend has been content with bags of sausages, and chillies. It’s these vignettes that have made the Goa trip memorable and not its beaches or many resorts. It’s the people who make the difference everywhere, It is they who make Goa so appealing.

Eco tourism, Thenmala

Posted by Arun on 10:57 AM

WE have stopped for a cup of tea. Or rather, our driver and attendant are having tea at a wayside tea-stall; we stopped because we saw something interesting happening near the tea-stall. Two men were pouring out a yoghurt-like liquid into pans, traysize pale yellow sheets, had been hung out to dry on a line. They were rubber tappers, and the liquid and the sheets were latex — the sap of the rubber tree. We are in the damp foothills of the Western Ghats and rubber plantations spread like dark forests all around.


We are back at our table beside the picture window. Trucks and cars swoosh past us occasionally, otherwise we are cocooned in the subliminal hum of the forest. Which is as it should be because we are parked just outside the reception building of the unique Thenmala Ecotourism, which claims to be India’s first planned ecotourism destination.

For us, both the destination and the journey to it were fascinating.
This morning, when we stepped out of Thiruvananthapuram’s Mascot Hotel, we saw our temporary home for the first time. We were impressed. The Kerala Tourism Development Corporation’s Caravan is a white luxury coach converted into a mobile home: two air-conditioned bedrooms with attached chemical toilets and showers, a living-dining room with a gas cooker, a portable generator for emergencies and facilities to plug in to an external power source when we stopped for the night. We covered the 72 km in a shade less than two hours and 45 minutes with two stops in between. It was a comfortable and very interesting journey.

Our companion during this drive was the knowledgable and enthusiastic K.G. Mohanlal, IFS. He is the Director of Kerala’s Eco Tourism Department and Chief Executive of the Thenmala Eco Tourism Promotion Society. Clearly, Kerala has decided to pay more than the customary lip service to this new discipline.

As we rose out of Kerala’s green plains to its forested uplands, Mohanlal spoke about eco-tourism and his project. “Eco-tourism,” he said, “must be nature-based, ecologically sustainable, have education and interpretation as its major component, and its activities must benefit local people.” Definitions, however, are not enough: if they are not followed by a viable action plan, they remain stillborn. This project, however, seems to have developed appreciably further than pious thinking. The operational heart of the project has already been built around the Thenmala dam. Happily, it is not a replication of the illuminated artificialities of the usual dam gardens, the ones that tend to confine nature into a Public Work Department (PWD) straightjacket. Here, apparently, they plan to promote three distinct types of eco-tourism: eco-friendly general tourism with the emphasis on outdoor activities, ecotourism in the nearby Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary and an eco-pilgrimage circuit connecting the three Ayyappa shrines of Kulathupuzha, Arayankavu and Achankovil while ensuring that there is no environmental degradation.

Nevertheless, while all this planning is very impressive, we wanted to see what had come up on the ground.
T.U. Uthup, Wildlife Warden, became our authoritative friend, philosopher and guide. The Reception Complex is a well-planned building with features drawn from Kerala’s traditional architecture. On the left, at a slightly higher level, is a broad parking area. Beyond it a semi-circular amphitheatre had been cut into the slope of a hill, crowned by a projection booth. They faced a wide and deep stage. Both the amphitheatre and the stage were unroofed. Returning to the reception building we walked up a laterite path to the raised and open- sided restaurant giving horizon-spanning views of wooded hills. Both the reception and the restaurant areas had a very open, uncluttered, look about them. They were, also, reassuringly eco-friendly and merged with the ambience of these forested hills, unlike the block-like dam buildings in their ruthlessly cleared grounds.

We drove past the ostentatious gates of the dam complex and headed into the eco-friendly tourism area. Here, again, tourist facilities had been built to blend with the trees. Offices and ticket booths were raised on decks. Mountain bikes stood in one of these buildings and a mountain-bike trail wound through the forest: challenging and appropriately rugged. A nature trail crossed it and vanished into the fastnesses of the jungle. And we looked down into a forest pool with a “river-crossing” cable strung high above it. Everything was designed to pit the visitor’s will and physical skills against obstacles that any outdoors-person might encounter. Sadly we did not have the time to test our Himalayan-conditioned bodies against these stimulating challenges, but we did climb up the elevated walkway: a wooden stairway that climbs, at tree-canopy level, to the old Thiruvananthapuram-Shenkotah Road. Short of swinging like a latter-day Tarzan through the trees, this is an excellent way of getting a forest- creature’s perspective of its high habitat.

Presumably, in time, the Interpretation Centre will identify interesting features on this walkway, the nature trail and the mountain bike path. There can be no better ways to appreciate the intricate web of life that is a living forest.
Clouds were building up so we had to hurry over the boardwalk that looks down into the gorge cut by the Kallada, fed by the spillway of the dam. Boardwalks are, generally, laid to make pathways over wet-lands and, possibly, this area does get soggy when it rains but, even when it is dry, the boardwalk is a good introduction to a feature that would not normally be encountered by tourists in our land. We did not quite agree with the concept of the so-called Sculpture Garden.

Here, they have made a path that winds, through the jungle, past some rather outré sculptures. They are supposed to revolve around the theme Nature and Man but some of them are so esoteric, like the busts of four elongated figures sitting around a candle, that we could not relate them to the theme.

But then, artists do have their own perspectives of the world and it is often difficult for the ordinary person to see creation through their eyes.

If the Sculpture Garden is meant to entertain mere mortals like us, then we would much rather opt for their excellent musical fountain. We have seen musical fountains in other parts of the world but none with such a perfect seamless melding of music, lights and dancing water. It is superb.

Dusk was rising out of the valleys when we headed for our last encounter with Thenmala. We drove through the jungle, approached the backed-up waters of the dam spreading around rising, wooded, hillocks and stood on a headland in the silence. The lake spread like a sheet of blue glass, mirroring the mountains, an island, a hazy frosting of clouds above. It was all as unreal as a painting, as contemplative as a prayer and slowly, we began to feel ourselves vibrating with the unheard but deeply felt chords of Nature, resonating with a holistic harmony that, for a long moment, lifted us above ourselves. It was, in all ways, a spiritual experience. This, clearly, is the true essence of Thenmala.

Enchanting Ghats of Haridwar

Posted by Arun on 10:52 AM
Probably right behind Varanasi in “holiness”, many polgrims come to haridwar to witness “the footstep of Vishnu”, chain links line the ghats because the currents in this part of the river are so strong, it is easy to be swept away.

The town itself is a holy place and is crammed with pilgrims who come to bathe in the ganges and float lit candles down the river as a means of offering. Intrestingly, although Haridwar is hot in summer, but the ganges water is always icy cold.

The river is fed by melting glaciers and snow peaks. That doesnt stop multitudes from turning up on any given day to bathe in the waters. Truly Haridwar is a city that signifies an arresting blend of indian culture and spiritual beliefs. The Kumbh Mela here is a big draw and the next Kumbh mela will be held here from Febraury to May in 2010.

Haveli Hari Ganga
We had booked ourselves into Haveli Hari Ganga ( also known as Pilibhit house), a mere 500 meters walk through the bazaar at the sacred Har ki Pauri. Hindus believe Haridwar was blessed by each member Hinduism’s great trinity, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. They also believe that shiva left his footprint in a stone that is now part of a Har ki Pauri ghat( a section of river that is used for bathing). we were given prayer beads and lassi to drink on arrival and we had a room with a terrace which the ganges lapped onto. The Haveli has been designated as a heritage property by the Department of Tourism, Government of India. The best part is the clean private bathing ghats, which is a first for a hotel in Haridwar.

Temple Visit
The next morning we woke up before sunrise to go down to the ganges to watch the sunrise over the mountains. It was absolutely beautiful, we then hiked up a small mountain to Mansa Devi. It was about a 30 minute stair-master workout, but the views were worth it. Along the way, we were almost attacked by the numerous monkeys on the trail. We took cable cars up to the temples of Mansa Devi and Chandi Devi. these were high on the hill overlooking the town and the ganges. Streams of devotees made their way through the temples, making offerings of flower petals and nuts. Other temples in close vicinity on the hill itself are the temples of Gauri Shankar, Neeleshwar Mahadev and Anjani Devi.

The Ganga Aarti
Ganga aarti is a riverside religious ceremony that takes place at sunset. The Ethereal beauty of ganga aarti is an un paralleled vision. It is accompanied by chanting monks, symbols, flaming torches, drums and trumpets. In the end visitors and locals alike set large leaf boats filled with flowers and candles afloat on the river amidst the tangy aroma of incense.

Cuisine
Strictly vegetarian cuisine is the order of the day, street food is commendable especially the halwais. The karigar fries the jalebis in his huge wok and its wonderful sight to see his old hands moving with the speed of an expert. The samosas here are equally commendable, the matar ka samosas are delicious and very different from anywhere else. Do not leave without a meal at Chottiwala.

Getting there:
Located on the banks of river Ganges(Ganga), at the point where the ganges descendsfrom the hills to the north indian plains. Haridwar attracts a large number of Hindu pilgrims from all over the world.

By Air: Dehradun’s jolly grant airport, with twice daily service to delhi is 20 km from Haridwar.
By Train: Haridwar junction is well connected by train. The railway station is located on the south side of the town, within walking distance of most hotels.
By Road: Haridwar’s bus station, a stone’s throw from the train station is chaotic and has no signage whatsoever in english. There are regular bus services from Delhi, Rishikesh and other important town of North india to Haridwar

Accomodation: For most of the hotels the checkin time is 12 noon, plenty of dharamshalas are also available in Haridwar, Haveli Hari ganga ( The packages are extremely reasonable) or ashrams.
Attraction: Hari-ki-Pairi, to the north of the center, this is Haridwars focal point, where devotees gather to bathe and worship on the ganges. Mansa Devi Mandir, atop a hill near the center of town, can be reached by roads that generally winds uphill starting from railway road

A Cool Chug

Posted by Arun on 10:49 AM

The Holiday can begin even before you reach your destination. Just take a train that offers basic facilities and pretty views … Enjoy!


KALKA TO SHIMLA (by Shivalik Deluxe Express)

If you have the luxary of time and are looking to relax and take in some natural beauty, step into this train. It chugs its way up to Shimla in 4 hours 45 minutes. Views of Himachal’s green peaks and valleys are complemented by the opulence of its interiors.It boasts of wall-to-wall carpets, wide glass windows, reversible cushioned chairs, a music system and microphones for communication with the guard.

Starts from Kalka at 5:30 am daily.
Fare: Rs 350 (Approx) one way.

MUMBAI TO PUNE (by Indrayani Express)

If you are planning a trip to Pune or Lonavala, this train is a must-take. Picturesque ghats, grey-green marshes and the river Ulhas as it meanders into the sea.. these are some of the visual treats you can enjoy.You can fill up on batata(potato) and sabudana wadas, omelettes, sandwiches and coffee on the way. Its fun for the children – the train passes through almost 40 tunnels in its three hour journey.

Starts: from Mumbai at 5:30am daily
Fare: Rs 250(Approx) one way for AC chair car.

PATHANKOT TO JOGINDER NAGAR( by Kangra Queen)
This train has comfortable sofa sets and wide glass windows in its first-class bogey. Newspapers, tea, snacks and meals are provided on the lines of Shatabdi Express. Hillocks rise on both sides as the train passes over picturesque bridges built across the many streams on the way. You may spot the Kangra fort and the greens of the Palampur tea gardens from your window.

Starts: from Pathankot at 8:20 am daily
Fare: Rs 350(Approx) one way for first class.

MUMBAI TO MADGAON (by Mandovi Express)
Headed to Goa? Try this Konkan Railway train. Fresh air and lush green fields accompany you through most of the route. Almost 40 waterfalls that gush down the rocky mountain slopes and around 15 tunnels — some very long ones – that have been carved out of the mountains are some highpoints of this 11 hour journey. An added plus: its known for its cleanliness and the food, served in deep-blue plates to match the colour of the train.

Starts: from Mumbai at 6:55 am daily
Fare: Rs 1800 (Approx) for AC first class